I have purchased my larger equipment from him, and he has always given me competitive pricing. What size pulley depends upon the motor speed, my Delta has a 3450 rpm motor, but I would see what you can find for a motor before you look for a pulley. While I look forward to having the convenience of using a jointer in the future, I don't necessarily want to stop working by hand. And of course these forums help. I will try to get some pictures up tonight. Ideally you would want a mag starter with a 220v coil, and they are out there. In addition, the shearing action afforded by the helical design yields a potentially cleaner cut; a major benefit on highly figured woods or boards with temperamental grain.
And that sharpness would diminish quickly. So replacing them is as simple as loosening a screw, removing the insert, dropping a new insert in, and tightening the screw. Do not expect long detailed instructions. New bearings are available for an additional cost. I'd guess you'd have to move into a European brand as the next leg up in quality.
It is up to the individual user to use good judgment and to safely operate old machinery. How long have you owned it? So you have to level the tables to the cutterhead. I just bought the Powermatic and like it very much. It can be found in their archives. You might also consider the many Euro-brands out there with the quick-change knife system -- some I think that you can even retro-fit with a helical head but most have straight knives -- with a large 16 inch jointer you can scew many boards and avoid some tear-out, thereby minimizing the need for a helical head.
Currently, I'm leaning towards the Powermatic, but am open to suggestions. This worked very well at a woodworking school I attended -- they instructed us to get the boards 70% flat on one face enough to register on the planer bed and then switch to the planer to get the board flat. This item is used one with 3 months warranty, no returns. I think I might just say the city installed it and say that it's a city utility box of some kind and that technically that side of the garage belongs to the city. I also own a General 650 tablesaw which is very sweet. Catalogs, manuals and any other literature that is available on this site is made available for a historical record only.
The tables were flat, the fence was straight and it stayed in tune for the whole time I used it. A copy may be worth your while. The Vintage Machinery web site serves as a clearing house for many out of print publications related to vintage machinery and their manufacturers submitted to the site by our members and visitors. Can anybody help me out here? There are currently 67 Publication Reprint submissions for this manufacturer. For more information on how these ads help us, and to learn how to whitelist our site, please click. My installation process was much as Mr.
You make a strong case for the General. The General has made my short list for the very reasons you mention. Our purpose is to provide information about vintage machinery that is generally difficult to locate. I'm not overly confident in the straight edge I was using, but I think my 4' level showed roughly the same thing. This can be far more challenging, especially with an older machine.
I bought it from Amazon and was nervous about the delivery but that worked out very well. Another thing I have considered is setting up a system of router rails. I have not changed or adjusted them in 3 years. I will ask the easier question first - what motor should I put in it? Might be a way to save some coin. The jointer is in good and all original condition.
How will I explain this to her when she all of a sudden can no longer open her car door in the garage and has to climb onto my driver side to get out. I never turned it on before replacing the head with a Shells. If I was gearing back up to do millwork and put some employees to work I wouldn't hesitate to populate the shop floor with General stuff. January 9th This video is fine but it overlooks the whole matter of leveling the tables to the new cutterhead. A good and accurate engineering square is important to do your checking. That makes a huge difference.