I have a 64 C20 with rear light issues. There are many threads on the internet explaining relay installation; it seemed time we had a thread of our own. First is the installation of relays, next is a jumper that keeps the low beams on normal brightness during the high beam cycle, providing more effective lighting. Headlight System Improvements by Mark Brazelton Here are a couple of reasonably simple upgrades for the headlight system in our trucks. The jumper keeps the normal low beam filament illuminated anytime the headlight switch is on, regardless of the dimmer switch setting.
It had been sitting in a field for 30 years or so. I will go home now. I'm also a fanatic on grounds, and never depend on sheetmetal. This will avoid Copyright Infringements should the Authors' or Photographers' Material be used without their Permission. I may be able to help you with your questions, but I don't know it all, this is why I started the.
The relays are mounted under the driver side air deflector, so the installation doesn't have to show even on a restored truck. The increase in light output is substantial and remains constant, no longer dimming and increasing with engine rpm. Sure, we have lots of information, from a Gallery of old trucks to a virtual National Club where you can get help finding those elusive parts to complete your projects. Click on the Banner below to get full details on how to sign up. I have turn signals but no brakes, running lights. Thus giving you the beep beep sound.
It looks like a bicycle horn to me. Following is a wiring diagram for a 4 headlight system. I will not be taking any New Memberships for 2008, I have fallen way behind with the Membership packets for 2007, as you mite know they have not been done of sent out. The switches are simply used to activate the relays. The high beam wires are 14 gauge, low beam 18 gauge and the grounds are 20 gauge. Thus giving you the beep beep sound. I have replaced just about everything with no luck.
Just look under those sections for what you need to know. A list of can be seen here. If you take apart the horn button there is a contact that is engaged when you press on the horn. I already have the harness for the gage cluster. And what do i need to do for the new one.
As I understand it, the truck came with resistor wire going to the points during run so they would last longer. Posted via Mobile Device Posted via Mobile Device Most of the original wiring was missing on my truck. . Also, I have no interior dome light, but gas indicator works. Last Updated December 17 2011.
WebSite Started January 2000, Our 12th Year! If you are going to use the stock dist. I was just making fun of the little horn in the diagram. What you are actually doing is sending a ground signal to your horn relay coil which has power at it and to one side of contact. All Photos on this site are used with the Owners permission. Anyone out there got any ideas? I hope this makes sense.
Under high beam conditions, the normal low beam filament goes out, and a dim filament in the bulb illuminates along with the high beam lamps. Over time this can lead to switch failure, or melted wires — especially with higher amperage bulbs. For a 2 headlight system, simply delete the two high beam headlamps from the schematic as both high and low beam filaments are contained in the same lamp. When ground signal makes it to the coil at horn relay it engages and closes contact to provide 12v to your horn. I hope this makes sense. With the relay system, the high amperage draw is handled by the relay, direct from full battery voltage right to the lamps.